10-03-09, 12:17 PM | #1 |
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Baitcaster breaking systems.
This is something I should already know, but I am finding out I'm confused. I understand the basic cast control knob located near the star drag. That's old school stuff. And I understand the adjustable megnetic control located on the left sideplate which is controled by the external dial. What I am unfamiliar with is the internal 6 pin centrifugal cast control that as I understand is located inside underneith the left sideplate. Reels containing both are recognized as having a dual breaking system. What I need to know is how to adjust the internal six pin centrifugal breaks and how they should be set according to the external megnetic break control.
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10-03-09, 12:47 PM | #2 |
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Here is a link to my friend Dave: he is AKA REEL MECHANIC it is a link to BASIC BAIT CASTING SET UP: It has a great eplanation, with pics on how to set up centfugal brakes. I prefer them myself to magnetic.
http://www.fishing-tackle-repair.com...setup-101.html |
10-03-09, 01:04 PM | #3 |
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Checked it out, but looking for a little more indepth info. He mentions setting the breaks at 50% to start with. But how do I do that? And how should the centrifugal breaks be set in relation to the megnetic breaks for various lure weights?
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10-03-09, 01:15 PM | #4 |
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Okay I will try my best. I only use ABU and Pflueger Reels, I wouldn't use a Shimano as a gift, and believe me I received 2 and they went to friends!
Pflueger: If you push the brake pads in , til they click , closer to the axis of the spool, then they are off, If you move them out, just til they click, but stay behind the little plastic stopper, they are on. As the spool turns faster the pads that are on will go away from the axis and apply pressure to the braking plate, slowing the spool down. When I first got them I used 4 on and 2 off, now I just keep 3 on and 3 off. In no special order, some claimed you should use every other one on and off for balance, I have yet to have a problem. ABU: All 4 of my reels only have 2 break pads to begin with, I use them just as they are, as the spool tension knobs with these round reels seems way more important to the cast. Hope this helped. If not pm addy, I can photocopy a Trion Schematic and a BPS one also, they have more in depth info, I cant find either on line. Dominick... Here is one of several you tube videos n the subject, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ojGnmWU8wI |
10-03-09, 02:24 PM | #5 |
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Keith,
In almost internal braking systems, Off is in. Meaning that the the further they are from the edge of the spool, the less resistance they add. To engage the breaks, you pull/push them out from the center of the spool. This holds true to my shimano, abu, and johnny morris. While all three are slightly different in the looks of the breaks, the concept is the same. Now, I do not really adjust them that much from lure to lure, I use tension knob for that. The exception is if I am changing out extreme weight differences in baits. (Say I was tossing a fly rigged fluke and then switched over to a swimbait) The key to determining if it is your tension knob or breaking system that causes a backlash is figuring out when it occurs. If you are over running immediately, then it is usually the tension knob. The spool is over spinning at the start of the cast. If you are getting a good cast, and then getting an over-run, it means that the breaks are not providing enough magnetic friction as the bait is slowing. I hope this helps
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10-03-09, 09:00 PM | #6 | |
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Quote:
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10-04-09, 12:22 AM | #7 |
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Thanks guys. I think I'm getting the idea now. I do appreciate.
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10-04-09, 09:51 AM | #8 |
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The reel I'm going to adjust is a David Frittz reel with 6 pins. I'n not sure how many I want to move to start. I'vve heard from BPS via email today and they suggested starting with moving only 2 and adjusting from there. The way they worded it, the breaks can be slid or adjusted one way or the other as far as I want it to slide. Not just to an on or off possision. Going to mess with it today and see for myself whats up, lol. By the way, I took that David Fritts reel out to the shore yesterday to see how it would cast on my BPS Extreme rod and OMG! That reel casts a mile!
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10-04-09, 10:15 AM | #9 |
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I owned and used a Fritts 5.3:1 for a season, great reel! I suspect they are built by the same folks who make Pinnacle and Pflueger, as the brakes are identical. 4 on 2 off was a good way to start, then I went to 3 on and 3 off, I never really changed by lure, I use the tension knob for that Good Luck, that is a nice little cranking reel.
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10-05-09, 01:08 PM | #10 |
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I dont think I've adjusted the clutch but once, 3 on 3 off. maybe if I'm really trying to get way out there I'll set 4 or 5 out just to give me a moment before I have to thumb it. seems to help a little with backlash depending on the line I'm using. With braid it isnt so much of an issue for most of the time.
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10-05-09, 01:33 PM | #11 |
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I don't know if it is true or just an old wives tale, but I had always heard to use even numbered breaks. I have always followed this out of habit.
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10-05-09, 01:36 PM | #12 |
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Most reel manufacturers (Pflueger for sure) recommend setting the internal brakes in PAIRS (engage brakes opposite each other rather than random or side-by-side). I've heard others use odd number brake settings, including Kevin himself. I set mine in pairs. I use virtually all Pflueger casting reels, and set them all with 2 brakes engaged. This keeps all my reels very similiar in casting characteristics.
The brakes are to overcome the problem of a baitcaster's spool revolving much faster than the lure's ability to take line off the spool during the cast. The tension knob is adjusted accordingly with the lure being used. Hold rod at about 45 degrees and push casting button, allowing lure to drop to ground. When lure hits ground and you get no backlash, is where most begin their settings. Basically, the tension knob sets the spool tension for the lure weight. The internal brakes engage with the cast to keep the spool dampened so it does not backlash with the cast, and on many rods that's it, other than your thumb. Those brakes, as far as my experience entails, are either ON or OFF, there is no in-between. Reels equipped with additional magnetic brakes (adjustable from the outside) are to fine tune the reel and come into play towards the end of the cast providing additional braking to the spool as the lure slows towards entry into the water (as opposed to hanging in a tree). Especially useful in windy conditions, allowing additional braking as required. Finally there is your thumb, the ultimate brake. Last edited by bassboogieman; 10-05-09 at 01:44 PM. |
10-05-09, 01:51 PM | #13 |
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Just have the brakes arranged symmetrically. If you have 6 brakes, you can have 3 on, just alternate 1 on, 1 off so that's it's balanced.
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10-05-09, 02:12 PM | #14 |
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Like BassBoogieman said, the pins are meant to stall or prevent the line overrun on the latter end of the cast. If the spool spins faster than the lure and line can pull off additional line the backlash occurs. The pins aid in slowing the spool (I believe is what is happening) and your thumb will be the the most controlling factor.
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10-05-09, 02:21 PM | #15 | |
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Quote:
You should be able to use: 4 off and 2 on (my preferred choice) 2 off and 4 on all off all on With a shimano reel, these settings are possible with symetry.
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