Baitcasters & fishing line

[BigBassin144]

robbie, you may be able to cast as hard as your can and get the same distance with your reel set your way, as someone would with a reel set a bit looser. But after casting for a few hours as hard as you can, you're gonna get tired out. And you are not supposed ot have to cast as hard as you can, casting should be one gentle, fluid movement, almost like a golf swing.

Here's how I set my reels, and I may get a few more minor backlashes than if I set mine reel like you, but I'm 100% positive I could get more distance set up like this than if I set my reel up how you are saying. I know I posted this before, but I'll post it again.

After tying a lure on, I hold the rod at a 45* angle to the ground and let the reel freespool (making sure ot stop the ait before it actually hits the ground). It should take approx. 5 seconds for the bait to reach the ground, a bit longer i you are really tall or using a very long rod. I adjust the spool tension every time I switch a lures that are sugnificantly differnt weights, I'll readjust this.

I set my magnetic brakes to about 5 to start and lower it gradually when I get confident in my thumbing abilities at that level. I've got most my reels at 2.5-5 depending on wind. And I've got one of my cheap reels set to 6. As for centrifugal brakesI start at three set (every other one) and then go down to two when I get confident. I'ldd back up to three or four in windy conditions. My centrifgual brake reel almost always has two brakes on, the other four off. As for my reel with dual brakes, Set both the smae as stated above, and lower as you go. I''ve got mine set to 1-2 on magnetic and two on centrifugal. I turn the magnetic ones up in wind because it is easier.

BB

[MrPhotographer06]

well i know absolutely nothing about baitcasting but i do know that on mine, my best friends and my uncles '76 5500c all if you tighten the right one just below snug and the left (on new reels right is the centrifugal or w/e lol brakes left is magnetic) one do the 45* angle thing.. then when it falls slowly enough to when it hits the ground and it stop.. back it down just a little bit and thats my furthest cast yet is set that way.. i can cast it that way and throw it without my thumb and 85% of the time i can just reel it in with no backlash what so ever

[Robbie R.]

BB, sounds like you have yours set really well.

I don't cast as hard as I can unless I'm tuning the reels to try to make them backlash.

When I'm fishing, it's just smooth easy cast.

The ways I described above works really well so I do encourage anyone who is having backlash problems to at least give it a try.

I don't think distance will ever be a problem or concern after you try it.

On a side note, I just bought a 4601 AB (anti-backlash) from a new member here and can't wait to try it. It's a older model discontinued reel that was NIB with all tools etc. and is supposed to have been a new design intended for never getting a backlsh.

I just had to try it..............

[stevomac59]

CAJUN REDLINE... the smoothest line ever!(well that I have experienced) as for the reel..ABU GARCIA Revo

-stevo

[WTL]

The Abu AB reels were a bad idea. The mechanism does prevent backlashes, but it also has a tendency to stop a lure before it has reached its target and without warning. Its better just adjusting a reel well than using the Abu Anti-Backlash mechanism, which was just one of those things that worked but caused more problems than it solved.

[Fishnngolfn]

I have tried this but the reel doesn't stop when the lure hits the water or grass when I am practicing. If the reel is still turning after it hits the water, Robbie mentioned to tighten the knob 1/16 until it doesn't do that any more. Is he talking about the knob next to the reel? And what is that knob called exactly?

[BigBassin144]

Originally Posted by Fishnngolfn

I have tried this but the reel doesn't stop when the lure hits the water or grass when I am practicing. If the reel is still turning after it hits the water, Robbie mentioned to tighten the knob 1/16 until it doesn't do that any more. Is he talking about the knob next to the reel? And what is that knob called exactly?

Yes he is, and that is the spool tension. It kinda of got confusing when he called everying this knob or that knob. That knob does exactly what it says: it puts tension on the spool so it doesn't spin as fast and doesn't spin faster than the lure is traveling (which is what causes backlash). I know robbie said you can cast without your thumb, but I think it is much better to do so. Start out his way, and eventually work on getting the brake set lower and using your thumb to slow the reel.

BB

[islandbass]

Originally Posted by Fishnngolfn

I have tried this but the reel doesn't stop when the lure hits the water or grass when I am practicing. If the reel is still turning after it hits the water, Robbie mentioned to tighten the knob 1/16 until it doesn't do that any more. Is he talking about the knob next to the reel? And what is that knob called exactly?

Just to let you know, that your thumb has to stop the spool from spinning if you can see that your lure is going to hit anything before it stops spinning. Thumb, thumb, thumb, thumb. If the lure hits anything, while the spool is spinning, that this a definite recipe for overrun. So imprint in your mind and muscle memory this sole instruction:

1) Stop the spool from spinning BEFORE the lure hits ANYTHING, be it the water's surface, the shrub in your backyard, or your neighbor's fence.

If you can do this, you will have reduced by at least 80% of the potential for backlashes.

In a later thread, you mentioned using I think 1/4 oz of a weight to practice with. Unfortunately, at your position on the learning curve, that is too light of a weight to learn with, especially with an ABU G reel. Save yourself the pain and trouble fiddling around with such a light weight for a beginner. Also, the two hooks you have on there can make things even tougher for you.

2) Use at the very least 1/2 oz of weight to start out. This will just about assure that you will have an easier time adjusting and learning the basic mechanics of the cast with a baitcast reel. Use a lighter weight at your own risk but you have now been told.

If you use a heavier weight and get your thumb to stop the spool from spinning right before the lure hits something, you will be more than halfway there. Good luck, don't give up and never ever quit.

P.S. It might even be helpful to barely even let it fall. Tightn your cast control knob to the point that you actually have to shake your rod to make it fall. Your casting distance will suffer, but you will gain the experience and training. Then, as you get better, you can start making incremental adjustments to loosen the cast control knob as your confidence grows, and it will. Pretty soon you will have it set loose enough that it would overrun when it hits the ground on a test drop. Well, that's how I like it now.

[MrPhotographer06]

i started with an ounce.. then worked down to half

[Buzz Wing]

Originally Posted by MrPhotographer06

i started with an ounce.. then worked down to half

Damn.... It would've been easier flingin' a freight train.

Talk about hurtin' when that smacked on the back cast!

[islandbass]

Originally Posted by MrPhotographer06

i started with an ounce.. then worked down to half

Actually, that was a very smart thing to do. Right on! Unless the rod could handle 1 oz.

[MrPhotographer06]

i was careful with it.. but it gives the good idea of casting and getting used to setting it.. then after i worked down a little.. and a little more... then i tried throwing a bullet weight only in my oz size for worms.. works out good but now i after my dad snapped my braid and i'm out.. MONO SUCKS! so i've gotta head to wally world for some braid

[windycitybass]

I definately agree that the thumb serves as a nice "safety" for backlash control. I have messed with my baitcaster for sometime, and after reading Robbie's post I have had much less backlash when practicing. It takes a lot of playing around with it, so be patient. My reel is also an Abu Garcia and has many of the same features as yours.

Long post short, thanks to everyone for helping me figure this out. I inherited a lot of gear from my uncle, and I've learned things that I don't think he knew about so keep up the good work everyone!!

[Fishnngolfn]

Thanks a bunch. I currently have mine setup with a drop shot weight and two hooks above the weight. I use this when fishing for catfish. It tends to backlash on me but I will try to go through these steps to see if I can correct it. Thanks BB144 for the help and Robbie for the instructions.

[Fishnngolfn]

The magnetic setting does what again? If I set it at 5 (or halfway on my reel) and left the side cap (near the handle and drag star) alone, what would happen if I increased the setting to 10? Decreased the setting to 1?

[WTL]

Magnetic cast control basically keeps the spool from spinning as fast. The higher you set it, the less likely you are to backlash - but there is a tradeoff in there that you will start seeing shorter casts.


You must get a heavier lure than 1/4 ounce. That would be your problem right there.

I don't want to see you give this reel away. Its a nice reel and you will be happy you learned how to fish it.

Of course if you do decide that it just makes you sick to look at, Im only in the next county over.

[bamabassman]

hey i got the exact same reel pal!!! had 2, but one kept giving me trouble, so i traded up and got the gold one. now have 1 silvermax's and 2 of the gold ones. i am sorry as well, never noticed that it don't have any numbers on the left side. just checked mine, hahaha, and it don't have em either!! my bad pal. sorry. just used to haveing them on the other reeels i have. good reel too, especialy for the money. my opion only though...see i love da garcias. got 5 of em.

[Robbie R.]

Seems like everything was explained perfectly.

To sum it all up, yes heavier weight is easier and cast farther.

It does sometimes however have a tendency to cause a backlash more often for people learning.

Fishnngolfn, Don't fiddle with the knobs........

Set right hand mag control at 5 and the left hand knob next to star drag so the bait drops slowy.

You should not have to remove knob if your reel is new.

If you adjust these 2 things.........drop and mags........then your set and only tighten left hand knob 1/8 if you have line over ride upon impact........

These other people know their stuff too......

Hope this helps.

Robbie R.

[Fishnngolfn]

Thanks everyone for all your advice and help. I should be able to figure it out now. I will let you guys now how it worked this weekend.

[Bmuskin]

I started with a baitcaster myself fairly recently and just now am starting to feel really confident. The advice in here is great and I printed some of it. I started using the line conditioner and it also helped a lot. They say it also helps braided not fray as much. There is a brand called Blakelys real - reel magic. I use it all the time. I notice when I go longer there is very little memory or coils in the line.

[Wishing2BFishing]

Bigbassin,

You mentioned that "There are normally six of them. If the pin in pushed out, then that brake is on. if the pin is pushed in, it is off. You want to have then symmetrical though. So if set one, you have to set the one across from it the same. so you can have none, two, four, or all six set. to start I'd go with all six, and go down to four when you get comfortable".

My question is that I was taught to set em' with every other pin pushed in so the pin across from each pin is the opposite of the other. Have I been doing things wrong all along?

[islandbass]

Originally Posted by Wishing2BFishing

Bigbassin,

You mentioned that "There are normally six of them. If the pin in pushed out, then that brake is on. if the pin is pushed in, it is off. You want to have then symmetrical though. So if set one, you have to set the one across from it the same. so you can have none, two, four, or all six set. to start I'd go with all six, and go down to four when you get comfortable".

My question is that I was taught to set em' with every other pin pushed in so the pin across from each pin is the opposite of the other. Have I been doing things wrong all along?

I too was taught to make it symetrical, but someone at TT pretty much gave me a snotty, stuck up comment (implying I was ignorant) that setting the brakes symmetrically was unnecessary. Being one who likes things nice, neat and balanced, I still subscribe to having my centrifugal brakes balanced so that punk can kiss my heiny.

I think you're alright and that is the way I pretty much set up mine, symmetric and balanced. The only exception is if I use only one brake. Then there is no way to balance it but it sure casts far.

Oh yeah. If you have the lp reels like the curado d, they came with a set of different colored brakes. These brakes can be used in place of or in conjuction with the stock brakes to arrive at even more braking possibilities. I have not seen the need to change for either 2 of and 4 off or 3 off and 3 on, but it is nice to know we have more options available if needed.

[BigBassin144]

Originally Posted by Wishing2BFishing

Bigbassin,

You mentioned that "There are normally six of them. If the pin in pushed out, then that brake is on. if the pin is pushed in, it is off. You want to have then symmetrical though. So if set one, you have to set the one across from it the same. so you can have none, two, four, or all six set. to start I'd go with all six, and go down to four when you get comfortable".

My question is that I was taught to set em' with every other pin pushed in so the pin across from each pin is the opposite of the other. Have I been doing things wrong all along?

I normally don't go into it for beginners, but every other one is perfectly fine as well, because, if you look at, it is still symmetrical.

BB

[BigBassin144]

IB, when just one of the pins is pushed out, then it is like having them all off (that's what I was taught anyhow). I've tried this. I turn just two that are right next to each other on, and casts, it doesn't work like turning two on that are across form each other.

BB

[Wishing2BFishing]

islandbass,

"I too was taught to make it symetrical, but someone at TT pretty much gave me a snotty, stuck up comment (implying I was ignorant) that setting the brakes symmetrically was unnecessary. Being one who likes things nice, neat and balanced, I still subscribe to having my centrifugal brakes balanced so that punk can kiss my heiny."

When you say "mak[ing] it symetrical", are you subscribing to the "every other one" setting or are you recommending that i set the brakes directly across from each other? Right now I am between setting two pins in (the off position) versus 3 of the brakes in (every other one). It is always interesting to hear how others handle the details.

Bigbassin, so do you recommend the "every other one" setting?