09-10-12, 01:22 PM | #1 |
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Out of the box sinker question
I've been using tungsten bullet wieghts this year. I'll have to say I really do like them. Now I don't like them for $1.25 per sinker though.
I will say, coupled with floro it really does make the feel of the bottom pretty good. The size makes for ease of casting too. Again, at a buck twenty-five a wieght, I'm not ready to throw in the lead yet. The question has to do with texas rigging lizzards. (Space monkies to be exact). Now 1/8 oz. tungsten are so very small I was thinking that instead of stepping up to a 1/4 oz. why not throw on two eighth ozs. Better yet, instead of 3/8's which alot of you probably use, use a quarter and an eighth. Now you got a smaller one in front of a larger one but yet almost the same size of a lead bullet head. Part of the appeal to tungsten is the sound it emits when hitting rock. Now think of a tungsten hitting rock followed by another tungsten hitting tungsten. This may be something to consider. Obviously if you peg then you would only peg sinker closest to the bait due to one needing to free float up and down the line. Heck maybe even a real small glass bead between the two sinkers. Now carolina rigging this should also be something to consider. Think of this, take and 1/8 oz and then tie a quarter oz finesse jig. Now easier to deep finesse fish. Plus noise. Most finesse jigs don't have rattles, mostly due to bulk. Just an idea I thought may need some insite from my angling friends. So what do you yhink? And as always, whys are always nice.
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09-26-12, 09:14 AM | #2 |
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Fishing question bump
I'm still interested!
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09-26-12, 11:52 AM | #3 |
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If you like them,want to do that small thing for the eco system great.
The only ones I personally like are the larger ones for a crig,but its a personal preference still use lead for flipping as smaller,crig dont matter and makes a real decent sound the bead against it. I dont feel badly about the lead as when shallow use no weight,senko. |
09-26-12, 11:54 AM | #4 |
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One of the appealing features of tungsten weights to me is the fact that they are much smaller, it allows them to look a little more natural at the head of a t-rigged plastic bait. I am not sure you will get the desired results with the two weights sliding against each other, depending on how or what you use to peg the first weight it may not allow the second to contact the first.
The other issue is cost, tungsten weights are typically priced so that 1/16 - 1/8 - 3/16 cost the same, and 1/4 - 5/16 and 3/8 are close to the same price. May be cheaper to just step up to the weight you are trying to reach, instead of doubling up.
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09-26-12, 12:14 PM | #5 |
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Not to mention getting that hung up and broken off...Kiss 2 weights goodbye!
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09-26-12, 01:13 PM | #6 |
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If you believe that the sound of two weights hitting each other will attract a bass and make it want to eat the bait then go ahead and try it.
I used to use light weight, 1/8 or 3/16th, all the time when fishing plastics but have moved up to 3/8 and 1/2 sometimes. In heavy grass the lightest I use is 3/4 oz. Sometimes heavier is better. I have lost plenty of bigger wts due to getting snagged and busting off so it can get expensive....especially if you have two weights on at once but.... I've got a deal for you if you're looking to spend less than $1.25 per weight. |
09-26-12, 01:30 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
THAT WAS MY VERY FIRST THOUGHT! I'm no eco hero I just found the size appealing and the clacking of two tungsten wieghts as being intriging. I truely do think they make a unique sound when hitting rock. I also find them friendlier in grassy waters but I'm sure thats the compact size as much as anything. Heck if a guy gets hooked on Trokars and Tungstens, LOOK OUT MONKEY. 3D your on my list. Unfortunatly as you probably read, I recently stocked up....like two days later....you post a great offer. So everyone knows. I payed $5.99 WITH a 30% discount. 3D's offering a great deal! 1/4 oz thats 4 wieghts a pack. 3/8's were 3 to a pack. lilmule, sound was my first intention too. I use glass beads, how about you? Tav. I'm not a big wieght pegger ever so the 'peg' always comes from point or front of sinker (which makes sense) or can you peg bottom up? Thanks everyone.
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09-26-12, 01:38 PM | #8 |
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Im old fashioned prefer glass beads against the weight regardless what its made of.
I generally use them for c rigging only braid to swivel ,mono thereafter tend to lose hook and rubber or bring tree up. |
09-26-12, 01:49 PM | #9 | |
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Quote:
http://www.basspro.com/Bullet-Weight...ite=image_link
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09-26-12, 02:42 PM | #10 |
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I've used the T-stops before. They work really well once you get them on. They would allow you to peg the weight closest to the worm, from the bottom and still let the top weight move freely. These stops also allow your bait and weight to move up the line when you catch a fish. You would just have to be careful to trim the stop really close to the weight to still get them to clack together.
I will sometimes use a small brass "clacker" and a glass or tungsten bead under my tungsten weight when pitching in off colored water. I'm not sure if it makes a difference or not but I have caught fish doing it.
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09-26-12, 06:24 PM | #11 |
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What your suggesting is interresting, so try it out and let us know how you do. Myself, one of the things I like about tungsten is the "feel" I get when working my bait. I would think I would loose the "feel" with the addition of added weights. Especially if they are not pegged and tapping against each other. But the noise aspect you bring up could work. But I would bet your sensitivity would be better with the least amount of hardware involved. As for pegging my weights, I only use the rubber bobber stops.
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09-26-12, 09:25 PM | #12 |
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Thanks everyone!
Great input and the whys make sense to me. So I remembered something I had...for a long time. http://www.mojolures.com/MOJOsinkerstopINFO.php Now I'm sure mine aren't the new and improved but the price tag says $1.97 and I get a tool and 90 strands. These things are ancient and never so much as opened. Now I'm going to hijack my own thread. I think I'm not understanding something. Ya I know, surprise, surprise I understand pegging when crashing mats and such. I understand their use in timber.(helps prevent snagging, right) But when traditional Texas rigging why or better yet, when is having the weight pegged tight to the nose of the plastic good or better or whatever. I throw worms usually weightless except drop shotting. But I'm not fishing deep water either. I do use weights on lizards and creature and such. I even fish tubes a lot of times this way. But I really don't tube much period. But when your dragging a worm it's going to naturally get pressed to the nose. When fish strikes don't you want the LEAST resistance possible? Plus I hear tales of the pegged weights helping the bass spit hook. I GOT TO be missing something. I can't figure out the 'why'. I truly don't think I've ever pegged anything. Well once with a toothpick but that was really just because I wanted to know the purpose. Didn't figure it out and never pegged again. So requesting HELP!
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09-26-12, 10:00 PM | #13 |
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I only peg in situations where I want to make sure the weight and the bait stay together. If you're fishing pads for example, it's pretty easy for your bait to land on top of a pad and stay there while your weight slides up your line and into the water. If the weight was pegged, it would pull the bait down with it. This applies to other situations but those are the only times I peg. I never peg on "normal" t-rig situations that don't involve heavy cover.
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