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Old 01-17-05, 12:20 AM   #1
ryan7261
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Default Deep Cranking

Using Deep Crankbaits

WHEN TO CRANK: Cranking is typically best in water between 55 and 80 degrees, or when bass are at their activity level. In this range, bass are most likely to make the reaction strike that makes deep cranking so effective.

WHERE TO USE DEEP CRANKBAITS: 1. In Shallow Water: The long bill of a deep crankbait is an effective buffer against hangups, allowing the angler to root the bait on the bottom in shallow water. This gives the lure an erratic fleeing crawfish action which is highly effective in the spring, when the water is warming into the 60s and bass are moving shallow. Crank shallow flats, bars and coves. 2. In Shallow Depressions: Ditches, shallow creek channels, dredge lines and the like are migration routes for bass moving from deep to shallow water in the spring, and bumping the edges and bottom of these depressions with a diving crankbait can produce a quick limit. 3. On Humps, Rockpiles and Roadbeds: These high spots are bass magnets, and cranking is the most efficient means of probing them. They're worth checking from spring through fall. 4. On Points: Best in post spawn and fall. Bass gravitate to points to intercept passing schools of baitfish and are vulnerable to a crankbait presentation. 5. On Channel Drops: With today's crankbaits that dive 20 to 30 feet, bass holding tight to or suspending over a channel drop are within reach.

DEEP CRANKING TACKLE: Most cranking rods range from 6 1/2 to 7 feet in length and have a very soft action. Graphite is considered too stiff by many pros, who prefer fiberglass or composite rods for crankbaits instead. The reason for the long, soft rod? Many bass hooked on crankbaits are skin hooked or hooked on the very edge or outside of the mouth. Crankbaits often foul hook bass that take a swipe at them, too. Landing these lightly hooked fish demands the maximum shock absorption - if a stiff rod is used, the bass may throw or rip out the hook on its first run. To attain the maximum depth and action from a lure, use a baitcasting reel spooled with 10 or 12 pound test line when deep cranking.

CRANKING SUBSTRUCTURES: Crankbaits are among the best bass lures for probing substructures, or structure on structure. Often a large piece of structure, such as a channel drop off, most of the bass in the area will be on a smaller piece of structure associated with the larger, such as a sunken tree or rockpile. Use deep diving crankbaits in association with your electronics to pinpoint these areas. Once you graph the substructure, drop a marker buoy, then probe the area with a crankbait capable of attaining the depth necessary to bump the substructure. Often, strikes will occur as the lure careens off the rock, stump, etc. But sometimes bass will suspend over the object and will strike a fast moving crankbait retrieved through them without making contact with the object.

READING BOTTOM WITH CRANKBAITS: With practice, you can read the bottom with a deep diving crankbait. When coupled with a sensitive rod, these lures have the ability to telegraph a considerable amount of useful information to the angler. The experienced fisherman can tell a gravel bottom from a mud bottom, or a rock from a stump, when his crankbait contacts it. Strikes often occur where one type of bottom condition or cover transitions into another.

WOOD vs. PLASTIC CRANKBAITS: Both wood and plastic crankbaits have their place in a tackle box. Wood lures are more buoyant and may appear more lifelike to the bass, particularly when careening off objects. Plus, there's an undeniable mystique to fishing a wood bait, this may inspire more confidence on the angler's part. But wood crankbaits aren't as durable as plastic and often chip or crack when bumped around stumps and rocks.

CRANKBAIT COLORS: Stick to basics when selecting crankbait colors. Shad, bluegill and crawfish colors are best. Chartreuse or fire tiger are especially good in stained water or in clear water on overcast days. Many anglers use crankbaits with reflective finishes, chrome, gold, blue, etc. These simulate baitfish well on sunny days, but quickly lose their flash when clouds roll in. On overcast days, avoid reflective colors and switch to flat baitfish simulating colors such as bone or Tennessee shad.

CRANKING TECHNIQUES: Crankbaits are mechanical lures unlike jigs or plastic worms, they have a built in action predetermined by the lure's design and construction features. If you cast them out and reel them straight back to the boat without bumping them into anything, they will have an unvarying action. This may be sufficient to tempt bass into striking. Varying the retrieve often can increase stikes when using deep crankbaits. A stop and go retrieve may trigger reluctant bass into striking, and, especially in clear water, probably makes the crankbait appear more lifelike to the bass. Finding out what kind of retrieve the bass want on a given day is always a matter of trial and error. If bass aren't responding to what you're doing, change it. Many anglers crank with the rod sideways, tip close to the water. Some sink the rod into the water, the kneel and reel presentation. This can cause your crankbait to dive to extreme depths, but may deaden the sensation of the lure vibrating through the rod and cause you to lose touch with the lure

Robby.
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