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Old 07-06-07, 08:22 PM   #1
jooleyen
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Default Drag Problem

I can have a perfectly set drag for fighting a bass, but when I set the hook with my Quantum Tour PT Burner reel, drag slips out really quickly. I've already lost one fish due to this. Are they all like this or is this a faulty reel?
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Old 07-06-07, 08:35 PM   #2
JB
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Due to changing weather conditions and humidity, you need to check the drag before the first cast on any outing. You can loosen them if the reel is going to sit for an extended amount of time, then tighten them as needed when you go fishing.
I like to be able to pull about a foot of line out with some resistance for my personal preference. I figure if the baitcaster lets out more line on a big fish, I can slow the drag by putting my thumb on the spool, verses trying to tighten the knob and take my attention off the line and fish.
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Old 07-06-07, 08:39 PM   #3
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jb is all over it..

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Old 07-06-07, 08:51 PM   #4
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I do loosen it when I'm not fishing. But I don't think you understand what I'm trying to say. The drag can be steady and tight, but when there is a quick pull on it, like a hookset, line slips out and I don't get a good hookset.
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Old 07-06-07, 09:12 PM   #5
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this on a new reel??

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Old 07-06-07, 10:30 PM   #6
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put your thumb on the reel when you swing...only with heavier line though
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Old 07-06-07, 10:37 PM   #7
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Open it up and check to seee if it was over greased, if so the grease probably got on the drag washers.
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Old 07-06-07, 10:38 PM   #8
jooleyen
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This reel is about five months old. I know I can do little things like keeping my thumb on the spool, but I want to do whatever I can to fix it before I start getting used to keeping my thumb on the spool when I set the hook on a fish. I'll try to open it up. If I have to unscrew anything, I'm not opening it.
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Old 07-07-07, 12:26 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jooleyen View Post
I'll try to open it up. If I have to unscrew anything, I'm not opening it.
Then you are not going to open it, to access the drag assembly youŽll have to remove the handle, the nut, the washers, then unscrew the sideplate and remove it then remove more washers until you reach the drag pads.
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Old 07-07-07, 03:41 PM   #10
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Nope. Then I'll continue using it for crankbaits and other soft hooksetting applications instead of jigs and lures that need a powerful hookset.
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Old 07-08-07, 08:50 AM   #11
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Jools, (Family?)

JB and rest of the inmates are pretty much on target.
If you never disassembled a baitcaster and seen the little "bent dime" washers that serve as tensioners for the drag you need to have a look.
The little critters, usually two stacked together on the gearshaft, need to be "relieved" when the reel is not in use.
It's OK to have your drags set during several hours of fishing, but you should ALWAYS loosen them a bunch when you come off the water. Otherwise, they will slowly but most surely flatten and become useless.
As Reb will attest I make a religious ritual of loosening the drags even before we trailer the boat. Of course, he is sometimes reduced to a giggling ball of merriment when, upon getting a bite on the next trip, I try to set and fight with a...you guessed it...still-loose drag.
BTW, do NOT loosen the drag to the point where sudden yank will result in a bird's nest. Loosen somewhat, but not to where the spool will spin semi-freely.

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PeeYess: The same applies to your spin and/or spincast reels...ditto your fly reels if they have a drag.
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Old 07-08-07, 11:03 AM   #12
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I have a quantum energy burner and I think I may know what you mean. Sometimes if I throw a real solid hookset into em the drag will kick out some line. For the most part I have just tightened my drag up alittle bit more and that seems to do the trick. Not exactly sure why it does it though.
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Old 07-08-07, 11:21 AM   #13
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Yeah. Thanks Flyrod. Maybe I should just tighten the drag and strip out line the first few seconds of the fight.
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Old 07-08-07, 11:56 AM   #14
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nope quite playing the fish and yank him in..if you can pull it out the drag aint tight enough.. only time it should be easy to come out is on a cranking rod.. the rest of the time lock and load..



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Old 07-08-07, 11:59 AM   #15
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Really?!?! That would be sweet if I could always just horse him. Even on 10, 12, or 15 pound test?
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Old 07-08-07, 12:49 PM   #16
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i use 12 pound test mono on everything except t-rig,frog,jig.. they are 30 pound braid -50 pound on the frog- rods are ment to bow so make them bow.

it says your personal best is 4.2 pounds so basicly ya catch a lot of dinks. a 3 pound bass should be able to pull a touch of drag at times.smaller bass will not -unless in heavy currant-yank them in play with them once ya get them in the boat..

the only thing that may prevent you from doing this is the rod you use..if your using a medium or medium light rod don't lock it down. other wise crank crank crank it down..if ya break the rod -it is a might too tight- welcome to BASS fishing.. i have broken alot of rods and i will break some more i am sure..it does give a great excuse to buy a new rod though.. and you wonder why i use a heavy action rod on a spinner bait?? heres why..




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Old 07-08-07, 08:04 PM   #17
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First things first. You need to make sure that the drag is buttoned up good enough to handle a strong hook set. There are plenty of ways that you can play a fish once you've got 'em buttoned up on your hook. If you don't have 'em hooked up good the perfect drag setting to play a fish isn't going to do you any good.
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Old 07-08-07, 08:15 PM   #18
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I'll just throw out a possibility. If you're using a superline directly attached to the spool, those lines can slip and mimic drag problems. If that should be the case, use some mono backing and tie your superline to it.
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Old 07-08-07, 10:03 PM   #19
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Thanks for your opinions guys. I think I've figured out what I should do.
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Old 07-09-07, 07:05 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jooleyen View Post
Yeah. Thanks Flyrod. Maybe I should just tighten the drag and strip out line the first few seconds of the fight.
Well, that's not my approach.
The harder hooksets, at least in my universe, are reserved for when I'm fishing T-rigs, weedless jigs, or anything involving a very slow retrieve.
Since I fish T's, J's, Buzzers, Spinners, and Toads/Frawgs on braid (with a fluoro leader in the first two applications,) even with a bit of slippage I still deliver a pretty hard hit thanks to the lack of stretch inherent to braid. That bit of slippage may be why I break VERY few rods.
Also, I whack 'em more than once, ala a blue water guy engaging a marlin.
The main thrust of my previous post was directed at preserving proper drag function, not tactics, but now I've explained "my way".
You can, you know, use a thumb on the spool in order to increase, momentarily, drag force. This can be done with spinning AND casting gear.
Also, you can learn to tighten the drag a bit beyond "Fighting" in order to increase setting power, then skillfully back it off as needed. This takes practice, but does serve me well at times.

Go get 'em.

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