03-10-05, 04:46 PM | #1 |
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TOPWATER18 heres you mold making stuff
Well I tried 3 times to post on your thread and it wouldn't let me, so here's a link to a mold making article by Senkosam. He has soooo much knowledge in his head, I can't believe it's not swollen too big to fit through any door
http://bassresource.com/fishing/pour...tic_worms.html Lizards |
03-10-05, 06:46 PM | #2 |
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Re: TOPWATER18 heres you mold making stuff
can anyone tell me what this means, exactly?
"4. For a two-part mold, take two inches of Popsicle® stick and shove down into the mushy plaster, but away from the cavity. This will act as a guide to assemble the two parts, exact surface-to-surface, when pouring." I thought you already added the two sticks? and what is this? "Small chunks of old plastic or liquid plastisol. (melted plastic can be reused, but care must be taken not to overheat or seer! Burnt plastic will become hard and black and the smoke and fumes can choke you!)" by the way, i am asking these questions refferring to the link provided. oh and what are the "forms"? thanks! ~discgolfer |
03-10-05, 11:08 PM | #3 |
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Re: TOPWATER18 heres you mold making stuff
dg, I'm not too familiar with making worm molds, but I think the "form" is one half of the mold you are using.
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03-10-05, 11:09 PM | #4 |
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Re: TOPWATER18 heres you mold making stuff
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03-11-05, 12:49 AM | #5 |
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Re: TOPWATER18 heres you mold making stuff
[quote author=bassintom link=board=news;num=1110484004;start=0#3 date=03/10/05 at 21:09:18]here ya go
http://www.xsorbit6.com/users/senkos...?board=general[/quote] Dang I didn't know senkosam had his own board 8) Well I guess I'll have to join and learn some more cool stuff. Lizards |
03-11-05, 12:58 AM | #6 |
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Re: TOPWATER18 heres you mold making stuff
[quote author=discgolfer link=board=news;num=1110484004;start=0#1 date=03/10/05 at 16:46:20]can anyone tell me what this means, exactly?
"4. For a two-part mold, take two inches of Popsicle® stick and shove down into the mushy plaster, but away from the cavity. This will act as a guide to assemble the two parts, exact surface-to-surface, when pouring." I thought you already added the two sticks? and what is this? "Small chunks of old plastic or liquid plastisol. (melted plastic can be reused, but care must be taken not to overheat or seer! Burnt plastic will become hard and black and the smoke and fumes can choke you!)" by the way, i am asking these questions refferring to the link provided. oh and what are the "forms"? thanks! ~discgolfer [/quote] Senkosam is really the guy to answer this, and he'll be around sometime. My understanding is that if you make a 1 piece mold, one side will be flat. So if you want a rounder bait, then you need to make both parts. You would pour 1 side, with popsickle sticks in it, and let it set, then you would poor the other side on top or bottom, so it will make a COMPLETE mold. Once the second part hardens, then you seperate them. But you must have a POUR hole to make this work. As for the old plastics(any old ones torn up, or you just don't use or want), and plastisol, if you heat it too much you kinda BURN it. Thereby making it very hard, and not a decent soft plastic. As for the fumes, well if you start wiffing em, you might fall unconscious on the floor and start having a seizure, and die. JK about the siezure part I think. It's not a real safe thing to be inhaling the fumes is what he's saying. Lizards |
03-11-05, 12:59 AM | #7 |
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Re: TOPWATER18 heres you mold making stuff
He sure does. I would give up buying tackle if I could make baits like that. 8)
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03-11-05, 04:31 PM | #8 | |
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Re: TOPWATER18 heres you mold making stuff
Lizards is correct.
A one part mold is very easy for lures that you don't mind having a flat side. Flat sided baits will catch fish, especially Senko copies, but aren't as pretty, which for some is a confidence thing. Plaster has the least detail of any mold material, but is adequate for decent copies of originals (like the Senkos) or prototypes you make from clay or putty. It drys in 30 minutes. Durham's Water Putty (it's not putty but is more like plaster), comes in a can in a powder form and has better detail, but is 5x more expensive and won't shrink when it cures. You just add water and mix good before adding the lure to be copied. It cures fast, so you've got to position the lure or prototype fast and wait until it cures completely (2 hours). The above mold cavities need to be coated with something that will stick to plaster and provide a gloss coat. Otherwise the cooled plastic sticks like crazy in the cavity unless fish oil or Pam is used. Â*I use Valspar Decorative coating because it's water soluble and dries fast. Fiberglass resin from the Auto Zone or Home Depot has excellent resolution but is 15x more expensive than plaster (20lb for $6), and you can't patch walls with it. LOL Â* Plus, once the catalyst is added to the hardener, open the windows!! RV silicone is on par with Durham's but lacks good detail, does not give a shiny gloss to your lure and is not easy to work with. The last alternative is lazer cut aluminum molds from Delmart molds or Bob's tackle shack (both have sites). The cost seems high, but once you go with metal, you'll not want to go back to anything else. Detail perfect, gloss good, ease of pouring and they last forever. Quote:
If you want to try and easy intro to plastic pouring, 1. take a small pyrex cup, 2. cut up some old plastic lures that you'll never use as is, 3. zap in the microwave until they start to melt for 10 seconds - check - zap again - check and stir with a metal butter knife, zap again until almost all liquid. The plastic is now pourable. (300 degree - mucho hot-o!) 4. Crease some heavy duty aluminum foil, closing both ends so you have a line and pour in the hot plastic to a desired thickness of your simple stick or finesse worm. Hold Â*or prop it up so it doesn't leak, for 1 min. Take the cooled worm by the end and put in cold water. Cut the ends Â*and you have a creation that will catch fish! Note that the worm floats with no hook embedded. Note: If you use fresh plastisol, you have to order it online. It comes in a bottle or jug, looks like milk, feels slippery, but heats crystal clear ( and stays that way unless dye is added or you burn the crap out of it.) Â*>Plastic should never be heated to the point that it starts smoking. It stinks, it chokes you (or your wife will) and it looks and pours like crap! http://www.bassresource.com/fishing/...tic_worms.html http://www.bassresource.com/fishing/..._supplies.html The soft plastics shown were all made from plaster molds. The 5" grub has one flat side (one part mold); the sticks are completely round (2 part mold). The plastic came Â*from chopping up old lures or old plastic from another pour and then microwaved. (Plastic is reuseable for up to 5 reheats, so save those refuse plastic lures or you buddy's.) Sam |
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03-11-05, 06:17 PM | #9 |
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Re: TOPWATER18 heres you mold making stuff
okay sweet! thanks a lot guys! however....sorry, one more thing. When you pour the plaster, the first layer, after it dries, do you line the top with tin foil (except the senko) and then pour the second half right on top of the first? thanks again! ~discgolfer
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03-11-05, 06:19 PM | #10 |
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Re: TOPWATER18 heres you mold making stuff
You got it! ;D
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03-11-05, 06:22 PM | #11 |
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Re: TOPWATER18 heres you mold making stuff
okay! thank you so much! im goin to try...when im not working! haha. thanks a lot, though. this will be fun. ~discgolfer
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03-11-05, 10:01 PM | #12 | |
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Re: TOPWATER18 heres you mold making stuff
[quote author=senkosam link=board=news;num=1110484004;start=0#7 date=03/11/05 at 14:31:13]Lizards is correct.
A one part mold is very easy for lures that you don't mind having a flat side. Flat sided baits will catch fish, especially Senko copies, but aren't as pretty, which for some is a confidence thing.[/quote] About time I got something right!8) Quote:
Lizards |
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03-12-05, 09:38 AM | #13 |
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Re: TOPWATER18 heres you mold making stuff
Both Â*will custom make a one or two part mold for a little extra. Some smaller designs go for $12 for 4 cavities; 8 cavities are around $35. For 2-part molds, starting is $35 for 4 cav; $90 for 8 cav. You'd have to sent the lure to be copied to find out if it's do-able and how much.
Their Sweet Beaver copies are incredible and produce a lure that is superior to the original. My Senko and Tiki stick molds produce superb copies (did you get any?). http://www.bobstackleshack.com/catal...b281e26e826d36 Sam Stay away from Lurecraft.com molds - not worth the money. One part only and lack detail or gloss. You can make any of the 100 designs yourself. |
03-12-05, 09:06 PM | #14 |
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Re: TOPWATER18 heres you mold making stuff
[quote author=senkosam link=board=news;num=1110484004;start=0#12 date=03/12/05 at 07:38:54]Both will custom make a one or two part mold for a little extra. Some smaller designs go for $12 for 4 cavities; 8 cavities are around $35. For 2-part molds, starting is $35 for 4 cav; $90 for 8 cav. You'd have to sent the lure to be copied to find out if it's do-able and how much.
Their Sweet Beaver copies are incredible and produce a lure that is superior to the original. My Senko and Tiki stick molds produce superb copies (did you get any?). http://www.bobstackleshack.com/catal...b281e26e826d36 Sam Stay away from Lurecraft.com molds - not worth the money. One part only and lack detail or gloss. You can make any of the 100 designs yourself.[/quote] Yes I got some, haven't used them yet. I did throw the curly tail grub, with no takers, but there were no takers on anything last time out. The grubs action is just what I like with the tail, I just like the baits a little longer. It had a great action. I'm gonna send you a PM on this subject. Thanks for the help, you may have just solved my dilemma about my pulse worms ;D Lizards |
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